It's healthy and robust, but it grows straight up with no side shoots. Growth occurs at the tip of the branch immediately proximal (toward the roots) from from the growing tip called the apex or apical meristem. Need to start a thread on your book list.Al—you mentioned earlier in this thread that it does matter which lead is left as the leader—and to revisit this with this thread when it’s time to cut! Thanks for your concern. Im thinking if I should prune it. When you first pruned, leaves on the stem or branch most likely to produce buds would be those closest to the pruning cut. I think i removed most of the old compost but did not trim the roots but checked there were not any big roots encircling it. I usually grow Chinese banyon or small leaf figs as bonsai plants. Is it time to prune? Every grower passes from plane to plane as his/her level of knowledge and efficacy increases. There was some white sap emerged. in garden chat groups and houseplant exchanges. The pruning will make the rubber tree branch out. A key element is an appropriate soil. I also use a incandescent Gro-Light aimed at desired Branch location and do same to any red tips that are not where I want them. Is this true? Also, I would remove the house numbers currently over the garage door and either put oversized numbers under the light to the left of the garage, creating a focal spot on the long area of the wall and moving focus left; or I would paint over-sized numbers directly onto the garage door in a stylized manner with right-alignment, anchoring viewer's gaze on the far-right side of the house and forcing their gaze to move right-to-left. I really really appreciate all of your help!Thank you for the very kind words. I from reading the other post- I need to worry about these two big problems first right? * Prune your plant back to just above the most proximal (lowest) leaf on each stem, then cut the single leaf in half across venation (the veins). Love mural idea on wall. By pinching, then removing the top to start as a cutting, you created an internodal cutting as opposed to a tip cutting. Very near this apex, there will be short term meristems that give rise to only a single leaf. This will help de-emphasize the garage. Gardens are where people grow.With rubber tree, it oozes white latex sap from any injury. Assuming I don’t want a branch (but would want a leaf) at each juncture, what would I do? I can't be here as often as I'd like.I'd say that on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being perfect vitality, your plant is probably a 4-5.At a minimum, pinching a plant involves removing the apical meristem. I have complete faith that you wouldn't steer me wrong! How you approach forcing back-budding (very easy with Ficus b) depends on how healthy the tree is. How do I encourage leaves to grow back on the bottom part so it's not leggy? In fact, branches that are out of sorts can be removed without any damage to the plant. A couple of days ago I was realizing how many things I've learned from you. Having pruned tens of thousands of branches on (off?) You’ve taught me so much!I got this fella few days ago from a woman who was moving out to another city and didn't want it anymore. Figs are good beginner bonsai plants as they have flexible branches that do not easily break, grow relatively fast, and have nice root structures especially for over the rock designs. About the Rubber Tree Houseplant . !Hi, Tory. You, however, should prune so you can take advantage of the stub - like this:The new branch wanted to grow at somewhere near 90* to the 'trunk', but the string and I (that should be on Broadway) outvoted the cutting. This image is what is called an internodal cutting (as opposed to a tip cutting, which includes the growing end of the branch) from a Ficus retusa tree, so it's closely related to your tree.Even in cuttings, removing the growing tip of a branch forces new branches to form in the axils of leaves immediately below the pruning cut usually referred to as a 'pinch' when the intention is to force back-budding. Yellowing or dropping leaves indicate the soil is too wet. I would:A) sever the tag of periderm cleanly, right where it attaches to the standing part (the part still attached to the roots) of the main stemC) paint the exposed wound tissue with waterproof wood glueThe wood glue will seal the wound, stop the underlying tissue from drying out, which will likely result in the death of what is now the terminal bud, and hasten healing because moist tissue heals much faster.Note: I'm fully aware that common convention dictates that we discourage wound dressings for trees in the landscape.
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