Just use a multimeter to test for continuity of the light, if the light is burnt out, you will get an open circuit, otherwise you bulb is most likely OK. Are you metering the 2 black wires on the output side? The one that shows voltage jumps depending on which input voltage I have it set on.
Opened up the pool light, the bulb twisted right out of the socket housing but with the mounting threads still inside, so it was very corroded.
Step 5 Disconnect the electricity to the transformer. The green wire from the pool light would be connected to the ground bar in the transformer box.
I miss it.
Disconnected the wires on the light side of the transformer and no juice there either. Built-in circuit protection will disconnect power to the transformer … Just use a multimeter to test for continuity of the light, if the light is burnt out, you will get an open circuit, otherwise you bulb is most likely OK. The black wire on the input side will always have 120v if it's connected to the hot leg.
Say 11-14 volts but if your under their specs they won't light.
Test the voltage at the input terminals.
You must log in or register to reply here. from the transformer), I only get 8.5 from 14V 8.5 from 13V 7.5 from 12V The brightness of a 12V and 120V will be the same.
Not sure of the purpose to this part of the socket.
Swimming Pool Light Tranformer - 100 Watt - 12 Volt - This Water Technics Transformer can be used with any of the Water Technics Branded Lights. Make sure you safe off the blue and yellow if you are not using them Same could be achieved buying a cheaper transformer like the one danpik listed and puting it in a water tight box from Home Depot (those grey pvc boxes with water tight fittings).
However, your bulb is probably 12v AC so the car battery won't do the trick. The black wire on the input is connected to the 120V breaker, there isn't any other black wire - unless you meant the one you hook up to the breaker.
I opened the box the light is fed from and there's no juice there. The multimeter should read "zero."
It's been dead so long.
My pool light hasn't worked since before I took over the pool, which is sad because I really liked it. JavaScript is disabled. In addition, check the secondary circuit for a short. I only receive full voltage when metering the hot and neutral together.
Led lights usually will have a tolerance for voltage.
The side with the 3 wires (black, blue, and yellow) is the primary side
3.) Should probably be 100-300, so that would give you an amperage range of 8.3-25 on 12v.
I ended up pulling it out of the socket housing, and it appears the white ring around where the bulb sits is also cracked. 1 shows 120V and the other shows 0.
I thought I would have 12V testing hot to ground, but I needed to test hot to neutral.
Think I'll eventually get around to switching out the transformer to hopefully fix the issue.
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